Newsletter October 2003

"We should be in The Tourist Business"

We’re back and none too soon. The zany crew of Pipe Dream has been really busy since the last newsletter. Don’t read too much into my last statement, it isn’t anything like woork, wourk, whork, or however that word is spelled.
We arrived safely in Panama City and grabbed a mooring buoy at the Balboa Yacht Club, (BYC). The BYC is located about ½ a mile from the Miraflores locks, which are the first set of locks of the Panama Canal on the Pacific Entrance. From Pipe Dream’s mooring we can watch 800 to 1000 foot long ships passing within 50 yards of us, 24 hours a day. This may sound very exciting, but it gets a little unnerving and also the wake from the ships makes us turn summersaults at times. The only reason we moor here is because the BYC has a very social “Happy Hour”, and pitchers of beer are really cheap. We cruisers know a bargain when we find it.
Bob and Tish Saemisch arrived on Sunday, September 28 and we had a fun filled two weeks ready for them. When our friends John and Mark on the 51’ catamaran “Little Wings” arrived in Panama City for their Canal Transit., we volunteered to line handle for them, and the four of us hitched a ride through the Canal. Our transit, which took about 10 hours, ended at the Cristobal Yacht Club on the Caribbean side of the Panama Canal. From there, we hopped on a bus for a 2 hour ride back to Panama City and Pipe Dream. The transit was a real thrill for all of us.
It took all of the next day to provision Pipe Dream to go to sea with Bob and Tish. We bought all the necessary life sustaining items, wine (red and white), hors d'oeuvres, ice, beer, and a little food. We sailed out of Panama Harbor and on to the Perlas Islands, 32 miles away. The Perlas chain is where the Television series “Survival” is being shot for the second time. This archipelago consists of more than 100 islands with numerous bays and anchorages. On one island, Mogo Mogo, a film crew was shooting a segment of their up coming Survivor series and we were asked not to cross over to the other side of the island. I guess, an inflatable dinghy with an outboard, and footprints on a deserted beach is a dead give-a-way for civilization; that’s showbiz!! We spent four days cruising a few islands and it was then time to return to Panama City and another leg of our world cruising tour with Bob and Tish.
Upon our return to Panama City we boarded an airplane and flew to Cartagena, Columbia. Cartagena, the walled city on the Caribbean, is the most beautiful city I have ever visited. Columbia, as a country, is totally screwed up due to drugs, drug wars, guerrillas, civil war, etc. I even heard Juan Valdez of Folgers Coffee is into coke! He traded in that mule for a Hummer. The city of Cartagena is neutral territory for Columbia. For some reason it is left alone by the drug lords for the tourist industry. The rich of Central and South America come to Cartagena to play and so did the zany crew of Pipe Dream and their visitors. Most of the walled historic part of the city has been restored. The original buildings, dating back to between the 1533 to 1700, are breath taking with balconies of concrete and rod iron with flowers and vines cascading down the walls. If you ever get a chance to travel to Cartagena, don’t pass it up. Prices are extremely cheap. Jutta and I would go out for a gourmet meal at one of the finest restaurants in Cartagena, and the total bill including drinks, wine and coffee came to $24 to $26.
Jutta and I had planned to fly back to Panama City with our friends, but we were having such a great time in Cartagena, we said our goodbyes to Bob and Tish at the hotel and stayed another two days in Columbia. Ah, the high stress life of a cruiser!!! We flew back to Panama City with good intentions of transiting the canal. After realizing Panama was having their 100 year celebration on Nov 2, 3, and 4th, we decided to stay for a little longer. There went our itinerary and our plans for a October Canal crossing. We have never been known to miss a wild party. I’ll check my day planner but I think I can fit the Canal into my schedule in mid November?
During our last three years of cruising, Jutta and I have anchored in beautiful spots, have traveled through various countries and encountered many friendly and interesting people. Although most times it seems like we’re living in paradise, bad stuff can happen, no matter where in the world you are. After returning from Cartagena, we heard on the Single Side Band Net, that our friend John was attacked in the middle of Cartagena harbor as he was launching “Little Wings” after a brief haul-out at the Shipyard. Apparently, three thugs climbed aboard, tied him up, stripped the boat and left him adrift in the bay. Fortunately, he was not hurt physically and managed to untie himself and take the boat back to the marina, where he put up a $ 1000 reward for the capture of his attackers.
It’s a shock to all us cruisers when things like that happen, and it is also a reminder that even in paradise we have to remain alert. However, High Seas Piracy really doesn’t scare us as much as running out of gourmet food, wine or cold beer. Everyone needs to have their priorities in place. Don’t worry we try not to take any chances.
Jutta and I are now anchored around the corner from the Panama Canal Entrance at Flamenco in the Bay of Panama. It is very calm here and we don’t get tossed about from wakes of passing ships. We can still watch the tips of the huge freighters and cruise liners pass by on the other side of the causeway. From the decks of Pipe Dream we have a magnificent view of the entire downtown skyline of Panama City. The 100 year anniversary of Panama begins in about two days and continues for four days. We are shining our dancing shoes and resting up. We have also installed a new wind generator, rebuilt the heads, changed out the alternator, and done other repair jobs. As you can see, this life is not all fun and games.
Well, that’s all for now. The next newsletter will be from the Caribbean side of the Panama Canal. Remember, if it feels good, “do it”, if it looks like work, “ignore it”.

From the Decks of Pipe Dream
Ferdy and Jutta