Newsletter November 2002

"We’re in Costa Rica, Where are you? Ha Ha "

I know most of you are going crazy wondering what happened to the crew of Pipe Dream. Well, we are baaaaack!! Jutta and I arrived in San Salvador on October 30, and we’re damn glad we had returned. Reality in the United States was about to drive us crazy. We decided to take the iron bird (airplane) and get back to the boat as soon as possible. In keeping with tradition, Jutta and I slipped through customs completely unscathed. Our bags were full of boat parts, chemicals, and electronics gear. We didn’t end up in the slammer, so I guess everything worked out just fine.
It took about a week of working around the clock to get the boat ready to go to sea. So you won’t be confused, working around the clock for the crew of Pipe Dream is about three hours a day, give or take a couple of beer breaks. Remember, I retired four years ago and an eight hour day could kill me.
Bob and Tish Saemisch, friends and fellow sailors, flew into El Salvador on November 6th to help us sail Pipe Dream down the dreaded coast of Nicaragua and into Costa Rica. Winds – known as the Papagayos - blowing from the Caribbean across Nicaragua, can reach gale force for weeks at a time. Another obstacle in leaving our anchorage at Bahia Del Sol, El Salvador, was the Boca, (mouth in Spanish). This is the narrow opening into the sea from the estuary. We had to pass over a sandbar through various lines of surf to get into deep, calm water. When we entered Bahia Del Sol last April, Pipe Dream had an invigorating ride sliding down breaking waves.
We prepared Bob and Tish for the worst weather possible and as we left the estuary at 0600 on Friday, Nov. 8th, 2002, (that’s early morning for you land lubbers), everyone held on as we headed for the boca. The sea was as flat as a lake, not one breaker, not even a ripple. Bob and Tish thought we were either the biggest liars or the biggest whimps!! We cheated death and headed out to sea with the motor roaring and with full sails. After fourteen hours of motoring we reached the Bay of Fonseca for some much needed rest. The ocean looked like a large pond, not a ripple and not a breath of wind. At about sundown, we did run into a huge squall and thunderstorm lasting for about one hour. After a quiet night at Isla Conchaguita, El Salvador, we moved to the anchorage on the Nicaraguan side of the Gulf where our Sunset Happy Hour was rudely interrupted by the Nicaraguan Military who decided to search the boat from bow to stern. For those of you in Yuma Arizona, that’s from the pointy end to the blunt end. Jutta, Bob and Tish stayed above deck with the Nicaraguan lieutenant and I went below with the two soldiers making sure nothing made its way into their pockets. While searching the galley (kitchen), one of the soldiers found a large jar of white powder. He was sure he had made the largest seizure of cocaine ever in the Bay of Fonseca. As I stood and watched him, he licked his finger, stuck it into the jar, and put it into his mouth. He made the worst pucker face I have ever witnessed. The soldier spun around and asked me in Spanish, what he just ingested. I told him we kill cockroaches with that powder. See, there is justice in this world!!! (by the way, we don’t have cockroaches – yet!). They finished their two hour inspection and we passed with flying colors. Most of you know what celebrities the crew of Pipe Dream are, but the military didn’t even ask for one autograph. I don’t understand it? After some arguing, the lieutenant allowed us to spend the night at anchor but ordered us to check into the port of Corinto the next day.
We arrived at Corinto, Nicaragua, after another day of motoring and dutifully called the port captain who didn’t have a clue what to do with us! He wished us a good night and the next morning at day break we were off again. We now needed to sail down the entire coast of Nicaragua to get to our destination of Costa Rica. “Well, guess what, sports fans”, not a breath of wind, not a ripple on the ocean for the entire coast. Our fears of high winds and confused seas were transposed to a new fear of running out of diesel. I never thought my position of captain of a sailing yacht would be reduced to skipper of a “tuna schooner” (smelly motorboat)
Our next stop was San Juan Del Sur, Nicaragua, and a diesel fuel stop. The Port Captain was generous enough to let us stop overnight without clearing customs or checking into the country. San Juan was one of the most beautiful little ports we had seen in a long time. French colonial houses and quaint beach palapas with good food and great beer made this stop very memorable.
In the morning we took on forty gallons of fuel and were off to Bahia Santa Elena, Costa Rica. Believe it or not we actually sailed three hours to Santa Elena in 20 knots of wind and flat seas. We had finally made it to Costa Rica!!! After a few overnight stops in assorted bays we arrived in Playas de Coco. It was time to check into the country, which consists of going to immigration, the port Captain, and Aduana (customs). In Mexico, checking in to a new country costs about $40.00, in Guatemala it cost us $140.00 which was only for a 5 day stay. In Costa Rica it cost $0.00 and the Port Captain personally welcomed us to Costa Rica and thanked us for coming. At that point, I was sure, he had recognized the celebrity crew of Pipe Dream. Jutta and I have been here in Playas de Coco for the last two weeks. Bob and Tish vacated the boat on the 21 st of Nov. We were thrilled with Bob’s help but Tish was a disappointment. She usually throws up for the first three days and provides the entertainment for the voyage. She didn’t get sick for the entire voyage.
We enjoyed a Thanksgiving potluck dinner on Pipe Dream with two other boats. A wonderful time was had by all, and by the way, the turkey was great!
It’s time for the crew of Pipe Dream to provision the boat with lots of food and fun stuff, cut the anchor line, hoist the sails, and head for another corner of paradise. For those cheapskates who have forgotten to send their money to the “Help Ferdy Cruising Fund” remember, there is still time to get your nude, blow-up, “Ferdy the sailor Doll” by Christmas.
From the decks of Pipe Dream
Ferdy and Jutta
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